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 Excellent Chinese Seafood In Falls church one of the best Hong Kong-style Cantonese restaurant. Vinh Kee which sounds more Vietnamese than Chinese. By whatever name, diners can enjoy first-rate food. Neither small restaurant resembles the large, upscale premises of Golden Palace in District or New Fortune in Gaithersburg.

        Vinh Kee is just off Arlington Boulevard a mile north of the Beltway. Vinh kee bright and cheerful, with tanks of fish, lobsters, and Dungeness crabs near the entryway. Hanging next to the pass-through that separates the kitchen from the dining area in each establishment are bronzed roast ducks, soy sauce chickens, sides of whole roast pig, and roast-pork filets (collectively referred to as Chinese barbecue.) These preparation are available both as appetizers and as toppings for the bowls of soup that come with dumplings, wontons, and noodles. Many lunch patrons content themselves with, say, a bowl of soup with shrimp dumplings and noodles, plus a quarter of a chicken or duck or a chunk of pig or roast pork on the side- a satisfying meal that costs around $10 dollar.

        Diners who stop there are missing some unusual treats. This place describes themselves as a seafood restaurant. Whole fish, whether a steamed bass or a fried flounder, has a flawless. So was a recent order of steamed Chilean-sea-bass steaks topped with ginger and scallions; the flesh flaked beautifully, the center bearing a hint of translucence. The preparation of shellfish, judging from clams with black-bean sauce and lobster with ginger scallions, is also excellent. Deep-fried shrimp is served with the head and shell on, yielding a crunchy contrast between the edible shell and the tender meat.

        Meat and fowl are fine here, and not only in the simple barbecue versions. Deep-fried pork chops, roasted squab, roast chicken with ginger and scallions, and steak with special sauce are good bets. Underappreciated are the bubbling casseroles. Some are simple, like chicken or mixed vegetables served with ginger in soothing sauce. But go a step further, perhaps by ordering the combination of oysters and roast pig or the Chinese squab, shrimp, and vermicelli.

        The remaining sections of the menu list the vegetables and noodle dishes. The best is the garlic and water spinach- the flavor of the quickly stir-fried whole garlic cloves permeates the greens. sampled noodles include the thick and wide chow foon served with beef, Chinese broccoli, and black-bean sauce; deep-fried rice vermicelli softened with a topping of meat, seafood, or vegetables, or a topping of meat, seafood, or vegetables, or a combination of all; curry-flavored thin Singapore noodles; and lo mein roast pork.

        Diners looking for adventure can try the gelatinous sea cucumber (a huge slug) with vegetables, beef with bitter melon served with a black-bean sauce, duck tongues with pickled cabbage, or stir-fried whole frog with yellow chives.

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